Harkidun, Valley of the Gods

Every time I head to Harkidun, it seems that something is always bound to go wrong. Whether it was waking up to 2 feet of snow in Gangar 2 winters ago, having my motorcycle stranded there for 6 months because of a huge landslide, or sharing a bus seat with a goat last December. These unexpected challenges and delays have helped change my attitude from being so focused and hung up on a particular destination or itinerary to attempting to take all of these unseen obstacles as adventures that ultimately make the journey more interesting and memorable.

Needless to say, when Krishnan Kutty, Titu, and I decided we should go scout out some different routes for next year's Activity Week I was a little apprehensive about what would happen this time around.

After arriving in Taluka and grabbing some food at what must be one of the most fly-ridden dhabas in India, we soon found out that all talk in this remote valley was of the Indian government's new plan to vacate numerous villages that are currently in the Govind Wildlife Sanctuary. The more we hiked and interacted with the local inhabitants, the more it seemed that the younger generation was being swayed by promises of financial reimbursement and an easier way of life. The older generation seemed to be much more opposed and hesitant to moving, as they have lived in these ornately-carved, timber-framed homes for generations. They did agree that life was becoming more and more difficult as the government continues to put more restrictions on their grazing lands and the freedom to collect medicinal herbs.

After a day and a half of walking under clear blue skies things began to get unsettled as we neared Harkidun. By nightfall it felt like we were back in Canada with the blizzard outside shrinking what had recently been a huge valley to only being able to see a few feet in front of yourself. The next morning, we awoke to clear skies once again and an ocean of white surrounding us. Plumes of snow blew from nearby peaks and the brightness was almost blinding as we made our way back down the valley along the once easy-to-recognize trail that was now buried deep in snow.

As we were trekking down the valley my mind began to wander as it often does on long days on the trail... about what this trip would be like without the rich cultural experience that one gets by wandering through these remote villages. I guess only time will tell how this story will unfold for the people that live in the Valley of the Gods.

Casey Guenther, Development Office